Bias binding is used to bind or cover the raw edge of fabric. Bias binding can be made in self or contrasting fabric as a decorative edge of a neckline, sleeve, collar or other feature. It can replace a full facing as with sheer or bulky fabrics or it can bind and finish seam allowances inside […] Read more…
How to Gather Fabric
Gathers are small soft folds made by drawing fabric up on a line of hand or machine stitching. Gathers give a softness and fullness to garments and is a way to release a lot of fabric from a tighter area to a fuller area; for example a full skirt on a fitted waistband or yoke, a […] Read more…
Guide to Hand Stitches: Five Basic Stitches for Garment Construction
We don’t have to sew our clothes by hand anymore but there are are times and construction details that call for hand stitching. Here are five hand stitches that will prove useful to know. Watch the video for detailed instructions and a couple hand sewing tips. I have posted pictures below for those just needing […] Read more…
Beginner Tips for Beginning Any Sewing Project
Some of us grew up in a household where sewing happened frequently and so we picked up a lot of sewing knowledge without trying. Some of us first learned how to sew through scouts or a middle school Home Ec class where we may or may not have paid attention to the teacher. And some of […] Read more…
Squaring up Fabric
When I pull fabric off the shelf, or out of the dryer, it’s pretty wrinkly and needs to be ironed before cutting. Sometimes it’s still wonky after ironing. The grain is slightly twisting one way or the other. Right here I have an easy decision to make. 1. I line up the fabric best I […] Read more…
Getting Fabric Straight
Why does it matter if the fabric you’re about to cut is lined up or trued or squared? And wait, what does that even mean? Fabric is made of threads and woven fabric (as opposed to knit fabric) is woven from threads. The looms are set up with lengthwise threads (the warp) and thread is […] Read more…
How to Sew a Button On
My button fell off, again. Not the same button, but a button from a dearly loved garment. Luckily it fell off in my presence and I was able to catch it. Buttons fall off store bought garments because they are sewn on by machines and machines can’t knot a thread properly. Sorry, robots, that’s just […] Read more…
Hand Stitching Tip #11
Did you know that when you hand baste anything, any stitch (tailor baste stitch shown in picture) that you do not need to tie a knot in your thread? Just leave a long enough tail (3″) so you don’t accidentally pull out the first stitch when making subsequent stitches. By leaving off the knot you […] Read more…
How to Transfer Darts From Pattern to Fabric
I’ve started a new project; a summer top. It has four darts in the front and two in the back. Tailor tacks are what you’re supposed to use to transfer dart markings from the pattern to the fabric. However, I think Tailor Tack Lite* (TM 😉 work just as great Tailor tacks are more secure […] Read more…
10 Essential Tips for Stress Free Hand Sewing
1. It’s a Needle, Not a Harpoon Use the smallest needle for the weight of your fabric. Smaller needles give you better control over your stitches. Heavier weight and tighter weave fabrics need a strong needle but still choose the smallest strong needle you have. 2. Darker Thread Blends in Better When choosing which color […] Read more…