Bias binding is used to bind or cover the raw edge of fabric. Bias binding can be made in self or contrasting fabric as a decorative edge of a neckline, sleeve, collar or other feature. It can replace a full facing as with sheer or bulky fabrics or it can bind and finish seam allowances inside […] Read more…
How to Gather Fabric
Gathers are small soft folds made by drawing fabric up on a line of hand or machine stitching. Gathers give a softness and fullness to garments and is a way to release a lot of fabric from a tighter area to a fuller area; for example a full skirt on a fitted waistband or yoke, a […] Read more…
Pattern Hack: Add a Yoke to an A-Line Skirt
It’s easy to love an A-line skirt: It flatters almost every body It’s easy to sew It takes a mere two yards of fabric It’s simple silhouette can be made up in wilder prints and will still look classy. It’s a work horse; errands, date nights, work, gatherings. It always looks like you made an effort even when worn with a […] Read more…
Guide to Hand Stitches: Five Basic Stitches for Garment Construction
We don’t have to sew our clothes by hand anymore but there are are times and construction details that call for hand stitching. Here are five hand stitches that will prove useful to know. Watch the video for detailed instructions and a couple hand sewing tips. I have posted pictures below for those just needing […] Read more…
How to Adjust the Bodice and Sleeve Pattern When Armholes Are Too Large
A reader asked “On a commercial pattern I have decreased the size of my armhole on a blouse pattern. I took 1 inch out of the front armhole. How do I adjust the sleeve pattern?” I assumed the problem was a gaping armhole – too much fabric above the bust area. This usually occurs when […] Read more…
How Paper Can Help You See
Cut right angled corners (or strips which can then be taped together at a right angle) from solid tag board or paper wide enough to visually block out the fabric extending beyond the area of focus (the area inside your frame). Mine are two inches wide (5 cm) and that’s probably the minimum width you can have […] Read more…
How and When to Make a Stronger Sewing Pattern
Novelty is a powerful attraction to me. I like trying new things; new Ritter chocolate bar flavors, new music, new hair cuts and so forth. Of course life is a contradiction and there are some things I am fiercely loyal to; flannel sheets, Breyers Vanilla, Dr Hauschka soap for example. However most things in my […] Read more…
How to Patch a Well Loved Stuffed Animal
Love can tear us apart and wear us thin and leak out our stuffing. This is what happened to my son’s girlfriend and Dotty, her knitted, stuffed cat from her childhood. However, love can fix us too and with the desire to make Dotty’s owner happy, my son suggested to her to let me fix Dotty’s six […] Read more…
How to Make a Pattern From a Favorite Garment
Ever put on a garment and wish you had another one like it? Maybe in a different color or maybe just more in the same color. Maybe you want an exact replica or maybe you want a different sleeve length, or to alter the fit just slightly. This isn’t a problem if you sewed it to […] Read more…
How to Sew French Seams
The recently sewn Rachel Comey Vogue pattern 1247, used French seams in the construction of the top. Upon reading this on the instruction sheet my first thought was actually three thoughts; What? Why? and How? What is a French seam? It’s a construction method used where the seam allowance is enclosed as the seam is […] Read more…